Burgundy and Bordeaux produce some of France’s greatest (dry) wines.  Are they similar or really so different?

When asked whether he ever confused a Bordeaux with a Burgundy in a blind tasting, British wine legend Harry Waugh replied: "Not since lunch."

Burgundy is a mere 20% the size of Bordeaux but has far more different “wine” because the average size of a Burgundy holding is just 15 acres.  Burgundy plays with practically just one grape – Pinot Noir for reds and Chardonnay for whites – while Bordeaux works with a cocktail of 4-6 grapes for reds and 2 for whites.  To approach both wines with the same perspective and expectation would add fuel to the fire of confusion.

 

Pairing food with Burgundy

Burgundy is surprisingly versatile with food.   The thing to be really careful about is the weight factor.  Obviously the older the wine, the lighter it will feel on the palate.  As long as we match it with food and does not leave a heavy palate impression which would cause the palate, by involuntary comparison, to conclude that the wine lacks substance, we are fine.

In terms of flavors, Pinot Noir is not that fastidious with food.  In fact more and more people are finding out that Burgundy is much more versatile than say, Cabernet, Merlot and Shiraz.

Classic matchups include game and poultry, even grilled salmon and other wish with intense and assertive flavors.  However to me at least, the best pairing is something cooked in a sauce made from a fine bottle of Burgundy.  For reasons I am not learned enough to explain, nowhere is the advice to “cook with the wine that you will drink” more true than with Burgundy.

 

Just a few last words about Burgundy

If this spectacular wine dinner still didn’t manage to sway you towards the wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux is still your cup of tea, do not blame yourself (or me for that matter), for this little anecdote is – I understand – reasonably true.

A Bordeaux-resident wine guru who, like just about everyone else who lived in Bordeaux in the 19th century drank exclusively Bordeaux, was presented a bottle of Chambertin – Burgundy’s finest.   After several sniffs, sips and gulps, he politely remarked “This is very nice, but all the same, I prefer wine.”

 

 


Appellations of Côte de Beaune
Some of the world’s greatest whites, and a clutch of fine reds

 


Appellations of Côte de Nuits
Famed for its majestic reds, though there are some rare white examples.

 


Appellations of Côte Chalonnaise
Increasingly good whites and reds. Pouilly-Fuissé is the best known. From the top handful of producers it is rich, full and superb. Also try St Veran for a racy Chardonnay wine from the villages around Pouilly-Fuissé

 


Appellations of Mâconais
Increasingly good whites and reds. Mercury, Rully, Givry and Montagny all offer good crunchy-fruity wines at decent prices